Price seems fair to me plus he is doing it sat and sunday so I don't have the truck down for work. I expressed my concerns to him about the overall health of the engine and that I didn't want to be into the engine for another 2k in gaskets if the motor is due for an inframe. Tighten the wing nut on the installation tool until it bottoms out. He said he felt the engine was healtthy and the little bit of pressure I feel and oil residue by the breather is normal.
5.Install the seal into the rear of the cover using a plastic hammer and the alignment/installation tool provided in the seal kit. Remove the tool from the crankshaft or rear oil seal housing, as applicable. To prevent damage to the seal carrier, hit the alignment/installation tool alternately at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions. 6.Install the pilot from the seal kit onto the crankshaft. Rear main seal and installation tool - 3.8L engine. Click to Enlarge After position the seal on the tool, install it to the crankshaft housing. I have run the truck for a litte over a week now and even with the leak, not had to put any oil in it. The best way to prove that you’ve got a rear main seal leak is the check if the engine side of the flexplate or flywheel is oily. I could probably get away with running the truck longer with the leak and funds are real tight right now but he's slow and the price is right and I might as well get it done before I do get busy and then it needs to be done plus DOT has been at the loading terminals on a regualr basis and Mr' DOT man doesn't like leaks. If the rear main seal is leaking on your engine it will drip oil onto the flexplate or flywheel and sling oil around the bellhousing. Most engines have an inspection cover in the bellhousing the allow you to check.
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